The summer before I started ninth grade, I lived in Prague for two weeks. In mid-July, my father and I boarded a plane bound for Frankfurt, Germany. My dad's sister lives in a suburb outside of Frankfurt with my unlce and cousin.
The plane ride over was the same as usual- eight hours of watching the little screen in front of me show our progress across the Atlantic. Although flying over night is the most practical, I remember wishing that it was light out so I could see the countries we were flying past. However, departing from Newark at 8 pm usually means waking up in daylight over a green Ireland. That is something I have begun to look forward to when I fly such distances.
Frankfurt International Airport had become somewhat familiar to me by then. After quickly passing through customs, my dad and I stopped at our favorite coffee shop for breakfast. Soon we saw my Uncle Jurgen waiting to pick us up.
After squeezing ourselves and our luggage into the Herdieckerhoff's tiny Skoda, we were off to our usual room in the Hotel Sonne of Bad Homburg. We were welcomed back by the owners before walking down the outdoor path to our room, where we would sleep off a bit of jetlag.
That night, my family and I went to downtown Frankfurt for dinner. It was a dreary night, but beautiful all the same. The Main River, part of the Rhine, teemed with swans. We didn't stay for long- we had already seen enough of Frankfurt and wanted to get on to the real purpose of our trip: Prague.
The following morning, we packed up a small white van and started off for Prague. We planned to make a few stops on the way, including one in the small German village of Rothenburg. Upon our arrival, we realized there was a special parade of some sort in the town that day. We had to park the van about a half mile outside of the town; the resulting walk to lunch was actually nice with the sounds of festival music growing louder with each step.
We decided on a small restaurant to have soup and salad. As with most German restaurants I have been in, dark lighting and wooden furniture gave it a middle-ages feel. One thing about German restaurants that I dislike is the ordeal one must go through to get a simple glass of water. In Germany, if you ask for water (wasser), you will most likely end up with a glass of carbonated H2O. When one asks for a glass of normal water, the waiter usually can't understand why someone would deny the opportunity to drink some of Deutschland's famous mineral water. They will then proceed to bring you a glass of obvious tap water, which is not what the average American tourist would enjoy.
After lunch we explored the town a bit. The festival was dwindling down; a few bands were playing and horses were still pulling a handful of carriages. Rothenburg is full of unique shops.
My cousins and I marveled at rocking tigers, goats, and the traditional horses. A German version of Build-A-Bear, Teddy Land, was packed with squealing children.
Back on the autobahn, we sped past German scenery at a shocking 180 kilometers an hour. At some point we passed into the Czech Republic, although in Europe passing from country to country has even less security and notification than passing through states in the US. Around seven pm we arrived in Český Krumlov, one of the most charming places I have ever been.
We checked into our hotel, a quaint little inn where every guest had their own mini house as a room. The bathroom in our room was beautifully decorated with a teal and red tiled mosaic. In this small Czech village, all of the television channels were either in Czech or German, no English CNN or BBC like most places.
We decided to go out for a late dinner at nine. Walking through the streets, I saw a group of native teens walk by, and I realized that Český Krumlov was just like any other small town in the world. As we stopped at one restaurant to look at the menu posted on the window, we met an old British man, Monty, who now lives in Český Krumlov with his wife.
Monty gave us a recommendation for a pizza restaurant, and walked us there. My father and uncles ordered Budweiser- the Czech Republic is the best place to buy it because its made there. After eating we said goodbye to Monty and walked around the town for a bit.
The Vltava river amazed me. It was so beautiful and serene; little cottages with clotheslines and picnic tables sat on its shores. Wooden water wheels make me envision Český Krumlov as what it might've been like hundreds of years ago.
Český Krumlov castle loomed above us, carved into a rocky hill. The buildings around us were very picturesque. I remember walking through a tall bell tower and shivering from the sight of bats illuminated by the moonlight.
The darkness of the village was somewhat eerie to me at eleven o'clock at night. The only light we had showing us our way back to the hotel was the few streetlamps and the moon. Even though Český Krumlov is one of the safest places I can imagine, being an American who expects trouble lurking around every corner, I stayed close by my family.
We ate breakfast at the hotel in the morning. One of my favorite aspects of European culture is the breakfast cuisine. Tea, warm bread with jam, and yogurt is a staple morning meal in the Czech Republic. Its the perfect fuel for a day of sightseeing.
Now that it was light out, I noticed that the buildings were painted. Stones and extra windows were painted on their exterior walls.
It appeared as though complex architectual planning had gone into the buildings, but really they were just made of cement and painted to look like a collage of stones. Later I noticed this trend in Prague as well.
Český Krumlov castle was our first stop. It is tucked into a rocky hillside, with a million passages and walkways. My father and I walked all through it, and the views of the town from up there filled me with so much love that I felt myself choke up. Later we walked to the gardens, a beautiful area adjacent to the castle with intricate fountains and flora.
After exploring the castle, we went for a stroll on the cobblestone streets. We stopped for lunch along the Vltava, and watched some river rafters navigate the peaceful current.
Despite my newly acquired love for Český Krumlov, we packed up the van and headed for Prague. On the way, we stoped in České Budějovice, the town where Budweiser originated. We went to the original Budweiser tavern, where my uncles had the authentic drink. Later we walked along the square town center before piling back in the van for the next part of the trip.
We drove in through New Town Prague, where all of the skyscrapers and businesses are. In the distance we could see Prague Castle, St.Vitus Cathedral, and other trademarks of Praha.
Our apartment was aross the street from the Vltava. We were on the third floor; to get there we could take a golden elevator or walk up a marble staircase. Our apartment had three bedrooms, two bathrooms (complete with bidets), a kitchen, and a living room. It was quite spacious. We had three balconies: two facing the river and Old Town Prague; one facing the courtyard behind our building. I must have spent hours just standing on the front balconies and taking in Praha- the city that still gives me goosebumps when I think of it.
The next day we went to Petrin Hill, an area of sprawling green gardens. The Czechoslovakian communism memorial is there. It shows metal men slowly fading away, symbolizing how communism drains individuality. We waited in line for the funicular railway. After riding up to the top of the hill, my father and I went to the Petrin Tower, which is somewhat of a mini-Eiffel tower. We climbed to the top, stopping every so often to sit on one of the benches provided at various levels. Once at the top, we could see all of Prague. The views were absolutely breathtaking.
We stopped at a vendor in the park for some refreshments. While seated, we began to chat with a Danish family who had girls my age. I will always regret that I didn't ask for their names.
After seeing the Hunger Wall, Loreto, and wooden Church of St. Michael, we left Petrin Hill. Walking through Old Town that night, I saw a sign for the Titanic museum exhibit. The history of the Titanic is one of my many obsessions, and when I saw that there was an exhibition at the Lucerna(shopping mall), I begged my dad to take me. We made plans to go later in our stay.
The following day we went to Prague Castle. Guards stand outside of the castle, similar in nature to the guards of Buckingham palace. St. Vitus Cathedral lies right nextdoor, and although it was under semi-construction, I had never seen a more beautiful church.
Gargoyles adorn the outside, teaming up with the Gothic architecture to give off an awe-inspiring sight. The inside is even more elaborate. Gold seems to be everywhere. Tombs of deceased nobility and saints lie on the sides, while the pews and the altar make up center. Stained glass, vaulted ceilings, a huge organ, and huge statues fill the dark worship space.
Once outside, we walk past an archaeological dig site. The social scientists tell us the are uncovering an ancient latrine. We walk by old buildings, and discover that sometimes you have to pay to use the bathroom!
Our next stop is an old torture chamber. We travel underground and see the actual instruments used to torture and kill prisoners of years past. I look down a pit that used to hold dogs, a pit they would throw prisoners in to, and think about how lucky I am to be living in 2008.
Wallenstein Palace is filled with artifacts from the seventeenth century. Large, spacious rooms lead to smaller chambers with crests painted on the walls. A stunning jade cabinet resides in the palace, roped off of course.
St.Charles Bridge is the main bridge across the Vltava. It is wide, filled with vendors, street performers, and beggars. Czech beggars are not allowed to look at passersby, and always beg in almost a cat stretch, only with their hands cupped together. At the end of the St.Charles is a tower with a small museum at the top. The climb up is creepy but authentic, and the height offers miraculous views.
Another day my cousins and I painted a wooden block to be added to a wall to help diseased children. I love thinking about how my name is written among the names of children from around the world. It is very humbling.
When my father and I went to the Lucerna for the Titanic exhibit, I was ecstatic. The Lucerna itslef is beautiful. The atrium holds an elevated statue of St. Wenceslas sitting on an upside down horse. The Titanic exhibit was fascinating, and at the end I signed my name in the guest book that will travel around the world.
Be cautious when traveling on trolleys in Prague. My father and I were fined a few thousand crowns (less than one hundred US dollars) for not having the correct pass. We didn't think anything of the man showing us some shiny trinket- until we realized he was a police officer showing us his badge.
The John Lennon Wall is in Praha. It is hand painted, showing the battle between the communist authorities and Czech hippies. Each would paint over it, trying to cover up the others' beliefs.
Something Americans might find odd is that Marijuana is legal in the Czech Republic. I went to a smoke shop with my dad (he was buying cigars), I was shocked to see the drug openly available to buy. Czech authorities will intervene however, if someone is found to have "more than a small amount."
One of the hardest things I have ever had to do is go to the Old Jewish Cemetary in Josefov quarter. I will start off by saying that Josfov quarter is small, shaded by trees, and gives off the feel that it has been through abuse, but won't give up.
The synagogue is small and exactly what you would expect of an east-central European Judaic worship space to be- only better. Hundreds of artifacts are housed there, most dating back to hundreds of years ago.
The graveyard is bone-chilling. Thousands of headstones are smushed together, crumbling on top of each other, showing how the Jews (before the Holocaust) were confined to their ghetto even in death. The significant height difference between the cemetary and the street suggest that not all of the bodies that rest there have headstones.
Walking through Praha at night is a great experience. The Vltava shines with moonlight, Prague Castle is lit up, and streetlamps dimly light the sidewalks along the river. We stroll through a modern art exhibit, one piece being a line of illuminated penguins.
Eventually we left for Berlin. On the way there we stopped at a small German village for dumplings. A car show was going on, and my uncles got quite sidetracked.
When we arrived in Berlin we checked into a very modern hotel, much like one would expect in America. Berlin has a very different feel than Prague; it has more in common with New York. For dinner we went to a small restaurant where we could look out on the bustling city. Trolleys are in Berlin as well, but they are not as cute as the ones in Prague.
When we turned on the television in our hotel, live footage of a fish tank appeared on the screen. My cousins and I couldn't figure out how to change the channel, so we took a walk to a book store instead.
The next morning we had the breakfast provided by the hotel, which is always expensive in Europe. This breakfast was more similar to an American continental breakfast, but not as heavy and sugary.
We only had one day to spend in Berlin before we were to head back to Frankfurt, so we decided to take a guided tour. Our tour started at the Brandenburg Gate, across from the infamous hotel Michael Jackson held his baby out of. Our tour guide was Irish, and his accent made the tour that much more enjoyable. Bullet marks scar the buildings of Berlin, a constant reminder of the wars fought there.
The Berlin Holocaust memorial consists of rows and rows of drab gray blocks. It symbolizes the way Jews were lumped into one stereotype. It takes up a large chunk of space in the city, showing just how many Jews were murdered during the Holocaust.
Seeing the Berlin Wall- touching it, keeping a piece of it- was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. Such an experience makes the history we read about in textbooks come alive. Where the wall no longer stands, a line of bricks still marks the history of a divided city.
I find it fascinating that the figures on the crossing lights are different in East Berlin than they are in the West. Checkpoint Charlie still exists, although it is just for show now.
Another memorial I saw in Berlin was one built in honor of all of the pain the people of Berlin have gone through. It is simply a building, empty except for a statue of a mother holding her child. Directly above the statue, a hole is cut out of the ceiling, allowing the weather to fall on the statue.
It was Fashion Week while we were in Berlin, and my fashionista cousin was displeased to see models smoking near the restaurant we stopped at for lunch.
My visits to these cities were full of rich culture and I will remember them for the rest of my life. Whenever I go back to Prague, Berlin, České Budějovice, or any of the other places, I will always remember them the way they were when I was fourteen.
St. Vitus Cathedral
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